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Tomatoes are an integral ingredient in west-African cooking, and are generally used alongside onions and chillies to create a flavourful and versatile base for sauces, soups and stews, and, of course, jollof rice. We often make a mother sauce of tomatoes and onions, then add spices and seasonings such as chilli flakes, garlic, ginger, nutmeg and cumin for a moreish bold and fiery pepper sauce.
West African spice-crusted lamb with tomato salad
This is inspired by the night-time meat vendors on the old railway line in Freetown, Sierra Leone. Cooking and eating it takes me straight back there every time.
Prep 15 min
Chill 30 min
Cook 50 min
Serves 6
3 6-bone racks of lamb, French-trimmed (ask the butcher to do this, if need be)
For the spice mix
½ whole nutmeg, grated
½ tsp ground black cardamom
½ tsp scotch bonnet chilli flakes, or chilli powder
1 tsp ground ginger
1 tsp garlic powder
1 tsp onion powder
1 tsp smoked paprika
½ tsp salt
25g dry roasted peanuts, chopped
For the crust
150g softened unsalted butter
10 tbsp fresh breadcrumbs
25g finely chopped mixed fresh herbs – I like parsley, chives and thyme
1 tsp salt
For the salad
1 tbsp white-wine vinegar
3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
½ tsp caster sugar
½ tsp salt
2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
2 stalks fresh tarragon, leaves picked and finely chopped
500g ripe tomatoes – you want as many different shapes and colours as possible, so go for heritage varieties if you can
Put all the spices in a spice or coffee grinder (or mortar), add the salt and peanuts, and grind to a rough powder – don’t overprocess it. Put a small, dry frying pan on a low heat, add the spices and cook, stirring, for about five minutes, until very fragrant. Tip into a small bowl and leave to cool.
For the crust, in a small bowl, mix the butter, spice mix, breadcrumbs and herbs until well combined.
Season the lamb racks with salt, then press a thin layer of the crust on to the fat side of the lamb racks. Put them in a shallow roasting tin and chill in the fridge for 30 minutes, to firm up the crust.
Heat the oven to 220C (200C fan)/425F/gas 7, and take the lamb out of the fridge 10 minutes before you want to cook it. Roast for 20-25 minutes, then remove and rest for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the salad. In a small bowl, whisk the vinegar, oil, sugar and salt, then stir in the shallots and tarragon. Slice the tomatoes, arrange them on a larger platter and pour the dressing over the top.
Slice the rested lamb into individual ribs and serve with the salad.
Plantain and feta hand pies with tomato salsa
Hand pies are a popular Sierra Leonean party food, and these ones, with sweet plantain, salty feta and a spicy salsa, are perfect for a summer get-together.
Prep 15 min
Cook 3 hr 30 min
Chill 1 hr
Makes 10 small pies
For the salsa
10 large plum tomatoes, halved lengthways, cored and deseeded
1 tsp salt
A few twists of black pepper
1 tsp chopped fresh oregano
6 tbsp olive oil
1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed
¼ tsp finely chopped scotch bonnet
25g fresh coriander, finely chopped
For the pies
4 yellow plantains
30g unsalted butter
1 large onion, peeled and finely chopped
400g feta
150g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
1 tsp salt
Sunflower oil, for deep-frying
Heat the oven to 140C (120C fan)/275F/gas 1. Line a baking sheet with greaseproof paper and arrange the tomatoes halves on top in a single layer. Sprinkle with the salt, pepper, oregano and two tablespoons of the oil, then slow-roast for about three hours, until the tomatoes are shrivelled at the edges but still plump in the middle.
Then make a start on the pies. Increase the oven temperature to 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4. Wash and dry the plantains, put them on a baking sheet, roast for 40-50 minutes, until soft, then remove.
Melt the butter in a saucepan on a gentle heat, then add the chopped onion, cover and cook very gently for up to an hour, until softened and golden brown. Transfer to a bowl, leave to cool completely, then crumble in the feta.
When the plantains are cool enough to handle, peel off the skins, put the flesh in a food processor and pulse to a smooth mash. Scrape into a bowl, add the flour and salt and mix to make a smooth dough. Wrap in clingfilm and chill for an hour.
While the dough is chilling, make the salsa. Heat the remaining four tablespoons of oil in a saucepan, add the onions, cover and cook gently for 10 minutes, until softened. Add the garlic and chilli, and cook for another two minutes. Finely chop the roast tomatoes, add them to the pan, then take off the heat.
Now fill the pies. Divide the dough into 10 equal pieces, then, using a rolling pin or a tortilla press, flatten each piece into a thin 15cm round. Spoon two tablespoons of the feta mixture into the centre of each circle of dough, fold over to enclose and use your fingers to crimp and seal the edges.
To finish, gently reheat the salsa, if need be, then stir in the coriander. Heat the deep-frying oil in a wok or deep pan over a medium-high flame, then, working in batches, fry the pies for three to five minutes, until golden all over. Lift out with a slotted spoon, drain on a plate lined with kitchen towel, and serve at once with the warm salsa for dipping.
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Maria Bradford is a chef and food writer, and owner of Shwen Shwen in Sevenoaks, Kent. Her book, Sweet Salone: Recipes from the Heart of Sierra Leone, is published by Quadrille at £30. To order a copy for £27, go to guardianbookshop.com
