‘Wonderfully rich and nutty’: the best supermarket mature cheddar, tasted and rated

As a West Country lad from the Somerset borders, I believe cheddar should come from Cheddar. The village boasts England’s largest limestone gorge, at three miles long and almost 400ft deep, and the stable low temperatures, high humidity and unique microbiome of its caves are perfect for maturing this famous cheese.

But good cheddar can be hard to find, not least because it’s a British kitchen staple that’s often sold as a loss-leader and produced by industrial creameries. The resulting generic block of cheese is pleasant enough, but if you want something with a complex flavour profile, crunchy calcium lactate crystals and a creamy texture, you’re going to have to put in some legwork.

Today’s test group are all labelled mature and mostly carry a strength rating of four, though I’ve awarded my own strength scoring as they vary greatly and there’s a huge range in quality, texture and flavour. Every big supermarket tends to have a wall of different cheddars, so try as many as you can to find your fit.

The best supermarket mature cheddar

Best overall:
M&S British mature cheddar

★★★☆☆

A large, utilitarian block of creamy cheddar made at Taw Valley Creamery in Devon. Rich and sharp, with a clear, lactic-sour twang. Full of umami, with a buttery texture and some crystallisation. Strength rating of four.

Best bargain:
Sainsbury’s West Country farmhouse mature cheddar

★★★☆☆

A protected designation of origin cheese made in Somerset using traditional methods and British milk. Produced by Barber’s dairy, the oldest cheddar maker in the world, this wonderfully savoury cheese is rich and nutty with a crumbly yet creamy texture. Strength: four.

And the rest …
Godminster the Mighty Middlewick Witch mature cheddar

★★★★☆

A small but punchy and crystalline block of mature cheddar made by Godminster in Somerset. There’s a real depth of flavour and sweet umami notes, and it’s also tangy and crunchy with calcium crystals. Strength rating five, and my best splurge.

Valley Spire British mature cheddar

★★★☆☆

A creamy block that’s sharp and lively on the nose, with a pungent undertone and very creamy mouthfeel. Good flavour development, too – all buttery, savoury and umami-rich. Lives up to its strength rating of four.

Aldi Specially Selected West Country mature cheddar

★★★☆☆

A classic, crumbly yet buttery block studded with calcium crystals, and also made by Barber’s. Matured for up to 12 months, this has an intensely flavoured, tangy, salty and cow-y flavour. Strength: four.

Tesco Finest mature cheddar

★★☆☆☆

A large, family-friendly, sweet and creamy block of Cornish cheddar made by Davidstow Creamery. Mild but still flavourful, with lactic sweetness and a little tang. Strength: two.

Davidstow Cornwall classic 12 months mature cheddar

★★☆☆☆

A creamy block from Britain’s largest cheese factory. Made with 100% Cornish milk and matured for at least 12 months. Not too strong (strength three) with a milky, lactic sharpness and a rounded sweetness. Some crystallisation.

Cathedral City mature cheddar

★★☆☆☆

A family-friendly, creamy and smooth Cornish cheddar made by Davidstow Creamery with West Country milk. Sweet, acidic, grassy and with a smooth, buttery texture. Strength: three.

Morrisons British mature cheddar

★☆☆☆☆

A sweet, slightly rubbery cheddar made with British milk. It has a slightly chemical aroma (packaging leakage, perhaps?), and is very creamy, more like a younger cheddar, but with a lactic sweet milk and hay umaminess. Strength: three.

Asda British mature cheddar

★☆☆☆☆

A small block of creamy cheddar with little provenance other than that it’s made at an “award-winning” British creamery, albeit without naming it. A touch sour, very buttery and soft. Strength: three.

For more, read our roundup of the best vegan cheese and the best supermarket feta