I love this salad – the combination of soft, juicy chicken, crisp leaves and anchovy croutons is so delicious. We serve it on the terrace at my restaurant and, when the sun is shining, it is the biggest seller by a country mile. But, first, an unusual frittata, which is essentially a risotto base with asparagus: it’s not difficult to make and is perfect for lunch, and even better as part of a picnic.
Insalata di pollo (poached chicken salad with anchovy croutons; pictured top)
A good salad is one of the simplest things to make, but as I always tell my chefs, it’s also one of the hardest, because it takes care and attention. All the elements have to be just right: the salad leaves and vegetables have to be really fresh, dry and crisp – a salad spinner is one of the greatest inventions, because it takes away all the moisture but keeps the salad crisp. The dressing is a lovely combination of sweet and tangy and goes so well with a fine grating of parmesan on top. Lovely as a main course for a lazy lunch.
Prep 15 min
Cook 45 min
Serves 4
2 x 180g boneless, skin-on chicken breasts
1 leek, washed and cut into 5cm pieces
2 carrots, peeled and cut into 5cm pieces
2 celery sticks, cut into 5cm pieces
1 bunch each thyme and parsley stalks, tied together
Sea salt and black pepper
Grated parmesan, to serve
For the anchovy croutons
1 garlic clove
1 tsp sea salt
50g anchovy fillets in olive oil, drained
1 tsp white balsamic vinegar
4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 ciabatta
For the salad
1 fennel bulb
1 carrot, peeled
4 radishes
1 baby gem lettuce
8 mint leaves
50g wild rocket
For the dressing
1 shallot, peeled and finely sliced
1 tbsp white balsamic vinegar
1 tbsp dijon mustard
1 tbsp honey
5 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
Put the chicken, chopped vegetables, herb stalks and a good pinch of salt in a large saucepan of simmering water. Turn down the heat, cook for 15 minutes, then take off the heat and leave to cool in the liquid. Once cool, lift out and skin the chicken, then cut it into 3cm pieces (save the stock for another recipe).
Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/400F/gas 6. For the croutons, put the garlic and sea salt in a mortar, crush to a paste, then add the anchovies and crush again. Add the white balsamic and olive oil, mixing thoroughly until the sauce emulsifies.
Cut the ciabatta into rough 3cm chunks. In a large bowl, mix the anchovy sauce and ciabatta so the bread absorbs all the sauce. Put the pieces of ciabatta on aoven tray lined with greaseproof paper, bake for 10 minutes, then remove and leave to cool.
For the salad, use a mandoline to shave the fennel, carrots and radishes. Cut the baby gem into 4cm-wide slices and put in a bowl of ice-cold water with the mint and rocket, so they go crisp. Drain and dry in a salad spinner.
For the dressing, put the shallot in a small bowl with the white balsamic and a pinch each of salt and black pepper, add the mustard and honey, and whisk. Slowly whisk in the olive oil, so the dressing emulsifies.
Put the chicken and all the salad ingredients in a large bowl, then add the dressing and toss gently to coat. Check the seasoning, adding salt and black pepper to taste, scatter over the anchovy croutons and finish with a fine grating of parmesan before serving.
Frittata di riso agli asparagi (asparagus and rice frittata)

You could put this together easily if you have some leftover risotto. Cooking at home can be so much easier if you plan what you’re going to cook for the week ahead. I am all for being spontaneous, but sometimes having something left over can create a wonderfully easy lunch or dinner just by adding a few extra ingredients. And this is one of those dishes.
Prep 10 min
Cook 50 min
Serves 4
400g asparagus spears, tough ends snapped off
Sea salt and black pepper
4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
2 celery sticks, trimmed and finely chopped
100g pancetta, cut into matchsticks
1 small white onion, peeled and finely chopped
150g carnaroli rice, or other risotto rice
5 tbsp dry white wine
50g unsalted butter
75g parmesan, grated, plus extra to serve
6 eggs
Mixed Italian salad leaves, to serve
Put the asparagus in a saucepan of boiling salted water and cook for three minutes after the water has come back to a boil. Remove with a slotted spoon or tongs and leave to cool. Keep 700ml of the asparagus cooking water (this will be used as the stock for the risotto). Chop the cooked asparagus into 2cm-long pieces.
Put three tablespoons of the olive oil in a large, straight-sided saucepan on a medium heat, add the celery, pancetta and onion, and cook for three minutes. Add the rice and cook for a further three minutes, until it absorbs the olive oil and turns translucent. Add the wine, cook until that’s absorbed, then start adding the reserved hot asparagus cooking water ladle by ladle, stirring until the rice is just covered with liquid, before adding more. Keep doing this for 10 minutes, then add another ladle of stock and check the seasoning. The risotto should be wet at this point, almost soupy, and the rice should have a good bite. Add the chopped asparagus and keep stirring and reducing the liquid until the risotto starts to thicken.
Give the pan a good shake and, when you feel the risotto is becoming emulsified, add the butter and parmesan. Stir vigorously until everything is combined, then take the pan off the heat, cover with a lid and set aside for two to three minutes (this will help the rice to absorb more of the liquid and become plump).
Take off the lid and check the seasoning, adding salt and black pepper to taste. Give the risotto one last vigorous stir, then tip it on to a flat dish to cool quickly.
Meanwhile, heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/400F/gas 6. In a large bowl, beat the eggs until homogenous, then pour into the cooled risotto mix and stir until well combined.
Put the remaining tablespoon of olive oil in a large, nonstick ovenproof frying pan on a medium heat, moving it around the pan to coat. Carefully add the risotto and egg mixture, gently push it down so it’s flat in the pan, then pop into the oven and cook for 10 minutes.
Take out of the oven and place a plate that is larger than the diameter of the pan on top. Place a tea towel on top of the plate and flip over the pan so the frittata is on the plate. Leave to cool for 10 minutes, then serve on warmed plates with a little extra grated parmesan on top and a salad of mixed Italian leaves alongside.
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These recipes are edited extracts from The Italian Table: 100 Classic Recipes Celebrating the Spirit of Italy, by Theo Randall, published by Quadrille at £28. To order a copy for £25.20, go to guardianbookshop.com

3 hours ago
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