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What’s not to love about secondhand shopping? You get one-off pieces while making an environmentally conscious fashion choice. From party dresses to jeans, some pieces are even better – and much more affordable – vintage. A well-made, brand-new leather jacket could set you back anywhere between £150 and £700, but you could pick up a secondhand one for £50 or less.
But it can be daunting when you first start. Knowing what you’re looking for and where you can find it is key. Consider where to shop: Vinted is good for a high-street steal, while Vestiaire Collective could get you discount designer (and it’s great for shoes; see below). Don’t overlook your local charity shop, either: some of my most satisfying secondhand buys have come from Oxfam or Crisis.
We don’t all have time to trawl through shops and sites, so here are some tips and tricks on the best pieces to buy vintage, how to shop for them, and what to avoid.
The best clothes and accessories to buy secondhand
Leather jackets
Vintage Danier jacket
Leather really can last a lifetime when cared for correctly, so a leather jacket – whether a bomber or a biker – is the perfect vintage grab. Secondhand leather has a lived-in look that brand new just can’t replicate, even when manufacturers try to reproduce it through purposeful distressing.
Shop in person, where possible, to get a sense of the quality, weight and feel of the jacket. Look for no-gos such as cracks, dehydration and musky odours (which often stick around with leather). Cracks can be a sign of dry rot, which can be common if pieces haven’t had the love they deserve. A full-grain or top-grain jacket – distinguished by its natural texture and imperfection – is best.
Rokit has an impressive collection of vintage leather: it lists details on what condition it’s in, what era it’s from, and in-depth measurements to give you a clear idea of how the jacket would fit. Similarly, online vintage marketplace Thrifted has a smaller, but equally considered selection, including vintage varsity jackets. Or try We Are Cow, which specialises in upcycling and reworking and has stores around the country.
For more, read our guide on how to look after leather
Party/occasion dresses
A vintage dress has a distinctive quality that a store-bought modern dress can’t replicate. If you love vintage, as I do, you’ll understand how a 2020s-does-1960s dress can look inauthentic. Many vintage dresses are handmade, so signs of hand stitching are a great way to tell reproduction from authentic vintage.
Etsy is a goldmine for anything from 80s minis to classic 50s cocktail silhouettes. Avoid listings that are unspecific about era: often this means it’s vintage-style rather than true vintage. Look out for bold patterns, striking silhouettes and statement sleeves, because if you’re going to go all-out, a party is the ultimate playground.
Avoid heavily sequined, feathered, silk or satin dresses secondhand, as any imperfections tend to show more on these fabrics.
If you’re not ready to commit, you could rent a dress for a special occasion. At By Rotation, you can borrow a dress for anywhere from three days to more than 30 days, depending on availability; all you have to do is return it after. Expect to see brands such as Zimmermann, Rixo and Self-Portrait available from £3 a day. Many listings even offer a purchase option, in case you want to buy it after you have tried it.
Designer heels
Sarah Jessica Parker teal satin T-strap pumps
Manolo Blahnik Hangisi silk heels
£800 for a new pair of Manolo Blahniks? I prefer £80. If you want to inject a bit of Emily in Paris into your wardrobe, look at Vestiaire. The luxury fashion resale site has gained a well-earned reputation for having an enormous collection of secondhand designer heels. With thousands of Manolo Blahnik-heel listings at the time of writing, some for less than £100, it seems rude not to bag a pair of vintage kitten heels on the cheap. Also, buying these secondhand means you get the pick of everything, from the sought-after archive pieces to the practically new.
Button-up shirts
Beaufort & Blake blue check shirt
A classic button-up shirt is one of those wardrobe staples everyone needs, and you don’t have to spend big to win big. Almost every charity shop I’ve ever stepped inside, including Crisis, has an overwhelming selection of designer button-ups on display, often overflowing with brands such as Ralph Lauren for not much more than you’d spend on your morning coffee. Make sure it’s not too sheer – an unintentionally see-through shirt signals low quality.
For quality and longevity, 100% cotton or linen is your best bet. The natural fibres of linen are wrapped tightly, meaning it’s exceptionally strong and even stronger when wet, so ideal for pieces that are washed frequently. Cotton, especially Egyptian, has a little more stretch than linen, providing extra comfort and strength for longevity.
Vintage suede
One of my favourite things to buy vintage is suede: it’s durable, affordable, high-quality and tops faux suede any day, which is usually composed of polyester and can quickly deteriorate after minimal wear. Look for telltale signs of ageing, discoloration, loss of shape or permanent creases. Check the finish, too: faux suede will have a subtle glossy coating, whereas real suede should be matt and non-reflective.
Try jackets, skirts, shirts or boots. A trick for Vinted: make sure you’re searching specifically for real suede, as sometimes this isn’t too clear in the listings. And check the condition tag – if it’s labelled “satisfactory”, I’d avoid.
Boots
Buying secondhand boots is a small but meaningful act that saves money, cuts carbon emissions and extends the lifespan of well-made shoes. According to Depop, buying boots secondhand can save 3,500 glasses of water and more than 86kg CO2e, on average, equivalent to driving more than 300 miles by car.
No one likes wearing in a new pair of heavy-duty leather boots, so why not let someone else do it for you? Try Depop for a huge selection of styles, sizes and prices, from a pair of new Dr Martens for under £50 to every style of knee-high boot you could imagine.
One more thing: check the soles. This is the part of the boots that you really need to be in good condition for them to last. Most Depop sellers tend to include comprehensive images and details with their listings, but if not, don’t be shy to ask. Well-made boots have a long lifespan if you know how to care for them, so if you do shop them secondhand, don’t scrimp on care.
Jeans
Levi’s 511 jeans
Secondhand jeans stand out for their durability, comfort and the simple fact that they don’t demand thousands of litres of water to be produced. Always try vintage jeans before you buy. That’s why finding a true treasure trove is important. Beyond Retro’s stores in London, Brighton and Bristol are just that, with a denim-heavy focus and a thoughtfully curated collection of every style, size and wash you could want.
One tip: vintage jeans often run smaller, and I find you have to size up at least one or two times, so it’s much harder to know what size you’ll need (not that regular jean shopping is easy).
Designer bags
Coach Swagger bag
A true “it bag” can last a lifetime, and more. With newer bags flying into popularity and falling just as fast, staple vintage styles – the Chloé Paddington, the Balenciaga Le City or the Fendi Baguette – can be passed down the generations.
Buying designer secondhand handbags can still be expensive, but there are places where you can find a steal. The Handbag Clinic is a trusty destination if you’re looking for an investment piece. I found everything from Jimmy Choo to Coach and Mulberry for less than £200. Its in-house authentication system should leave you in safe hands, and if your bag gets a bit grubby from wear, its restoration service can look at anything from discoloration and scuffs to dirt and general wear and tear.
What to avoid
Some pieces are just better new. Avoid buying trainers secondhand, especially running trainers, as an intact sole is important for supporting your feet as well as protecting your joints. Secondhand underwear and swimwear are a no-go for me for hygiene reasons. White is often a tricky colour secondhand too, so check for visible stains. And longer-lasting natural fabrics, such as leather, suede, cotton and wool, are usually better than synthetics generally, secondhand or otherwise.
What’s your favourite secondhand fashion hunting ground? Let us know at [email protected]
